Alpine Skiing

The sheer beauty and majesty of the Alberta Rockies surrounding The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise are a sight that every Canadian should try to see at least once. I am fortunate, in that I visit this spectacular outdoor cathedral every November when our planet's fastest ski racers congregate to celebrate Winterstart - the official opening of the World Cup tour's "speed season."

For almost ten years now, the White Circus' first men's downhill and super-g races have been held here at the lake named after Queen Victoria's fourth daughter Princess Louise. With our neighbours to the south celebrating Thanksgiving, and Christmas just around the corner, it is truly a magical time at The Chateau as the hotel's staff scurry around decking the halls with boughs of holly and other such festive decorations.

But the sights, sounds, and smells of this Rocky Mountain fairy tale castle, as it prepares for the holiday season, are dwarfed by the buzz created by the arrival of the ski racing world's fastest thoroughbreds. The arrival of the alpine hordes on the Monday of race week here is usually signaled by the sudden smell - be it actual or imaginary - of testosterone in the air. Unlike other stops on the World Cup circuit, where national teams stay at different hotels, at this one - everybody lives under the same roof.

If you are staying at The Chateau, it becomes quickly apparent that some teams are better suited for communal living than others. Without naming names, it's obvious that skiers from some of the sports larger nations are more comfortable sticking close to one another - like wildebeest herding together to stave off hungry lions. Others however, like the racers on the Canadian, American and Norwegian squads are more inclined to mingle and socialize - very much like a pride of hungry lions plotting their next wildebeest takedown.

Normally, Monday night at The Chateau involves a friendly game of pool among the skiers - but this year it seems fondue has replaced billiards and "racer reunion central" has become the Walliser Stube, the hotel's famed Swiss restaurant.

On one side of the room, a large group of Swiss skiers and coaches are gathered for a low-key evening before race week cranks into full gear. Among them, Didier Cuche (who just won the season's first World Cup giant slalom race in Soelden, Austria) and Liechtenstein's Marco Buechel (who won the Lake Louise Downhill in 2006).

Buechel may ski for Liechtenstein, but he knows his way around fondue being half Swiss himself.

"When we come to this restaurant it's just like being home, my wife and I had fondue and the other guys had raclette (a Swiss cheese delicacy that involves melting cheese under lamps or on little skillets), everybody just loved it" says Buechel.

Also present are Canadian racer Manuel Osborne-Paradis and his longtime girlfriend Lana McIntosh who have forsaken a little time alone and invited me for supper.

The meal is outstanding, a first course of air dried meats and vegetables followed up by some cheese fondue.

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Manuel Osborne-Paradis and longtime girlfriend Lana McIntosh share a romantic fondue at The Walliser Stube restaurant in the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise Hotel

Michael Mastarciyan/CTVOlympics.ca

"But what's a fondue without chocolate for dessert?" Osborne-Paradis quips before ordering a fruit plate and some Toberlone chocolate for dipping.

"I always let Lana choose the type of chocolate because she's an expert," he adds with a smile and a wink at his girlfriend.

After a little bit of chocolate, Osborne-Paradis' takes his comedy routine to a new level - when he quizzes the waiter on the make-up of the fruit platter.

"Does the fruit plate include bananas?" he asks.

"Not if you don't want them, are you allergic sir?" the waiter responds.

"Allergic, yah, that's it I'm allergic to bananas, so please no bananas," Osborne-Paradis says with a smile.

"You don't have a banana allergy Manny!" McIntosh interjects," You're just bananaphobic!".

After the discussion about the validity of Osborne-Paradis' alleged banana allergy, the topic shifts to animals and a semi-serious confession about a new pet Osborne-Paradis and McIntosh are hoping to purchase.

"We're thinking very seriously about buying a miniature donkey as a pet to keep up at my place in Invermere, BC," Osborne-Paradis announces.

"Yah, and we're going to name him Paco," adds Lana with a twinkle in her eye.

It becomes clear that this couple is made for each other - and race week is now officially on in Lake Louise.